Lazy Skin Day

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A pile of ‘lazy day’ products have seemingly collected themselves on my vanity; these are products for days when you have things to do and not much time to spare on skin. I am a person who enjoys spending quite a bit of effort on my skin, but if I can find products that cut down on time I am all for that.

IMG_0334First up is cleanse; two to mention, both rather different in concept. Dr. Jart+ Dermaclear Micro Water is a smartly-packaged micellar water with the innovative inclusion of hydrogen water, the same ingredient at the heart of the rather unique Perricone H2 Elemental collection. I recommend this article on hydrogen skincare, but essentially hydrogen is an antioxidant with a unique activity in the skin that up-regulates NRF2, which in turn increases our body’s own antioxidant production. So we have hydrogen, sake, willowbark, royal jelly, and rose all acting to soften, cleanse, and resurface the skin. For those who love that squeaky-clean feeling, this is an incredible one-and-done rinse-off (please rinse it off) cleanse.

For those with a penchant for a traditional cleanser, CLE sent me their Oxygen Foam Cleanser. This is applied to dry skin where it can dissolve makeup and cleanse the skin in one step, though I would always go in twice on days I am wearing liquid foundation to ensure every last bit is taken away. This too gives that squeaky-clean feeling, and I do enjoy how bright and even-toned my skin looks after application. This does say it assists in promoting the production of collagen, which I am sceptical of, but as a cleanser this is a comfortable option.

I have a few bottles of Avène Thermal Spring Water lying about, and though I have tried and tried to make these work I never see any difference when using them despite having tried Avène’s and both the regular La Roche-Posay and Serozinc. The infusion of minerals is supposed to act as a supplement to the skin, though again I never notice anything different. Nevertheless, I quite enjoy spraying them on my skin mid-day to refresh or before a moisturizer to sheer it out and make it feel lighter. For me this step is necessary whenever I wear Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream, which I tried to like but just could not get on with. I quite enjoyed it the first few days I used it, but several weeks later my skin had developed red bumps across my temples and even a few hours later I could feel it on my skin. I was rather disappointed because Caroline Hirons just dropped it into her Hall of Fame, and I have heard wonder-stories of people who have replaced most of their routine with this one product. Its claim-to-fame is its inclusion of ceramides, which are lipid molecules that exist in the stratum corneum and protect against water loss and the entrance of foreign substances into the skin. I suppose not every product is for every person, but I still wholeheartedly recommend giving this cream a try if you have compromised, problematic, or mature skin.

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To finish the lazy look, Dior Capture Totale Dreamskin Advanced is an after-moisturizer skin perfecting serum that provides both instant gratification and long-term benefits to the skin. I am always sceptical of luxe products in higher price brackets, but this is truly remarkable. Within a few minutes its optical powders mildly blur imperfections like moderate dark spots, impart a subtle glow to the skin, minimize the appearance of pores along the top of my cheeks, and subdue minor texture along my jaw. What is unique about this is that it also has long-term benefits, stemming from the inclusion of longoza extract which acts to both increase collagen and elastin production and ease gravity-related sagging, and opilia extract which aids in dark spot correction, red spot correction, and the reduction of visible pore size. Critics say these ingredients are unproven, but if we look at skincare as a whole the only ingredients which are relatively ‘proven’ are ingredients like retinol, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, green tea, and vitamin C and even so, most of these studies are far from extensive nor are they done on the product but rather the ingredient and often tested in vitro rather than in vivo. So in all honesty, if a product makes you look instantly better, makes you happy to use it, and will not kill you, then it is aces in my books.

Lancer Method

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What is it?

A clinical skincare system for glow.

What did I try?

The Method: Polish, The Method: Cleanse, Retexturizing Treatment Cream Glycolic Acid 10x, The Method: Nourish.

What is the key ingredient?

The Method: Polish – quartz and sodium bicarbonate crystals (physical exfoliant), pumpkin and pomegranate enzymes (chemical exfoliant), brown sea algae (globally corrective).
The Method: Cleanse – sodium PCA (pH-balancing), rice protein (softening), amino acids (hydrating).
Retexturizing Treatment Cream Glycolic Acid 10x – glycolic acid (resurfacing), CoQ10 (antioxidant), phospholipids (hydrating).
The Method: Nourish – nasturtium flower extract (glow), hexapeptide 48 (treats fine lines), polyphenol (antioxidant).
Continue reading “Lancer Method”

Skincare Journal 03

Nearly a year ago I purchased most of the Drunk Elephant collection. Everything else went away into a box, and I went all-in. I was impressed by how each product seemed to leave skin comfortable for the next, and the result was skin with a bit more balance to it than my typical hodgepodge of active ingredients, products, and brands. The Pekee and Juju cleansing bars are a bit too much for twice-daily use, so I suggest Pekee every evening and Juju twice a week; splash your face with tepid water in the morning. B-Hydra was hydrating and plumping, and T.L.C. was brilliant at tackling texture and small blemishes. I now have Lala, and find it far too heavy for twice daily use; once in a while it’s a comforting treat. Overall the line is a tad bit expensive for what it is, but the formulas are great and the philosophy of simplicity is one I can get behind.

Skin Journal 01

A different format, one where I can spend less time on aesthetics and more time on sharing my thoughts on the newest products in the beauty and skincare industry.

I have taken another look at Tata Harper. In the morning I have been experimenting with the Purifying and Regenerating cleansers, and I now remember how much I enjoyed using them last year. Purifying gives a deep clean with a light lemon scent, while Regenerating leaves my skin rather luminous. Neither would make for a great twice-daily cleanse for anyone but the most oily of skins; instead I would alternate them with a gentle oil cleanse (perhaps the Nourishing Oil Cleanser). As for the Rejuvenating Serum, I have been using it in the morning as a moisturizer. It hydrates and illuminates brilliantly. Every other day I have been using the Resurfacing Mask, which has sloughed away any rough texture resulting from my retinol. Tata is a great brand to consider if skincare is an experience for you, and you value naturals.

Verso Skincare

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What: Verso Skincare.

Who: Mature skin, blemish-prone skin, city-dwellers.

How: Formulated with Retinol 8 technology, Verso features unique technology in brilliantly restrained packaging. Dark Spot Fix contains the highest concentration of Retinol 8, and reviewers say it makes quick work of sun damage and residual acne scarring; brown marks of discolouration, essentially. It also features niacinamide, one of my favourite ingredients, that aids in the inhibition of melanin production and visible redness.Their day cream, night cream, serum, and oil all contain shea butter which makes them more suitable for those with insufficient oil production rather than those prone to congestion. Despite that, I am more comfortable with recommending Super Facial Oil, a formulation which includes a light-weight ester of shea butter rather than the more unprocessed variant typical to skincare. And to start your routine on the right foot, Foaming Cleanser is a cream-based cleanser with a slight lather. Its formula is rather minimal, though it is a gentle option to consider.

Why not: The line is a tad bit confusing in that it is not made clear why there are so many products, despite them saying they offer few. If Retinol 8 is so fantastic, why are there so many different products in the collection? A day cream and night cream, alright, but why a serum, a face oil, and a dark spot corrector? I think greater clarity in that regard would be appreciate. On another note, Canadian availability is limited with no major physical retailer carrying the line; a shame, because the results of Verso are widely cited.

Where: Sephora (America), Mecca (Australia), Cult Beauty (internationally), Feelunique (internationally).

NIOD Cleanse

niod-cleanse-skincare-2017In the spirit of a new year—though I never have much thought for the turning-over of a number—I took today to begin the rebuild of my skin from the last few weeks of gift buying, long days at work, travelling, and preparing for the winter semester. I have already brought back NIOD CAIS into my routine, after spending a great deal of time reading academic papers on inflammation; trust me, copper is a good thing. After reading the January edition of the Victoria Health newsletter I was inspired to share my adapted NIOD cleanse routine, something I hope to incorporate weekly as the results are truly remarkable.

As for my goals this year, I am working very hard to not set any; I always find myself far more willing to excel if I am left limitless. On the whole though, you can expect more intelligent writings here on the blog, and a refined selection of product reviews. Personally I am cleaning out most of the no-good products in my drawers and trying to limit my intake of gluten, sugar, and dairy in an effort to become Gwyneth Paltrow (and better my skin and body). Now, onto the cleanse.

The Weekly NIOD Cleanse Routine

Components: NIOD Low-Viscosity Cleaning EsterNIOD Sanskrit SaponinsNIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide MistNIOD Flavanone Mud, NIOD Myrrh ClayNIOD Mastic MustNIOD Hydration Vaccine.
Indication:
 Congestion, dullness, enlarged pores, unbalanced sebum production, irritation, redness, areas of dryness, puffiness.
Frequency: Weekly, either morning or evening.
Aftercare: Makeup application is discouraged.
Substitutions: Replace Hydration Vaccine with Voicemail Masque for the further benefit of improved cellular communication.

  1. If makeup is present, dispense NIOD Low-Viscosity Cleaning Ester into the centre of one palm. Spread the liquid across both palms, then massage into the skin using upward, slow, firm motions. Continue until makeup is removed. Gently rinse with tepid water. Pat skin with a clean towel until dry.
  2. Squeeze a large dollop of NIOD Sanskrit Saponins in the palm of one hand. Wet the other hand. Massage both hands together to form a creamy paste. Starting on the cheeks and shifting outwards toward the ears, press the paste into dry skin using firm, slow motions. Take the time to breath between presses. Now press paste onto the temples, along the forehead, down the nose, and onto the chin. Let activate for five minutes. Gently rinse with tepid water. Pat skin dry.
  3. Mist face with NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist, four or more spritzes should do.
  4. Take a dollop of NIOD Flavanone Mud on the tip of a finger and draw a line along each cheek, then across the forehead, and then down the centre of the face. Smooth the lines outward, avoiding the eye area, until a thin layer coats the entire face. Relax for twenty minutes. Generously wet your hands with water and, with force, hold your cheeks for a count of five. Do the same with your forehead. Take more water and massage the face, loosening the mud from the skin. Continue until face is clear of residue. Pat skin dry.
  5. Mist face with NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist.
  6. In the same manner as the NIOD Flavanone Mud, apply NIOD Myrrh Clay. Pay special attention to taking Myrrh Clay down along the neck and across the chest to promote a tauter appearance. Remove Myrrh Clay in the same manner as NIOD Flavanone Mud. Pat skin dry.
  7. Squeeze a generous dollop of NIOD Mastic Must in the palm of both hands. Apply to the face in upward, slow, sweeping motions beginning along the jawline and moving upward to the top of the forehead. Relax for ten minutes. Remove in the same manner as NIOD Flavanone Mud. Pat skin dry. On a low-heat setting, use a blowdryer to further activate the blurring properties of Mastic Must. Close your eyes and slowly move the airflow across the face. Spend no longer than fifteen seconds.
  8. Mist face with NIOD Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist.
  9. Take a small bit of NIOD Hydration Vaccine in the palm of one hand. Smooth Hydration Vaccine across the other hand, then apply to the face in upward, slow, sweeping motions beginning along the neck and moving upward to the top of the forehead.